It was at Quinta do Palame, in Freixiel, that I took part in the grape harvest for the very first time. An ancient tradition that once brought together hundreds of people of all ages. Today, technological advances have transformed the process. Yet, despite all this mechanisation, in the village the tradition remains unchanged: grapes are still picked by hand. I wanted to discover why keeping this tradition alive matters so much.

The scorching September heat marks the beginning of the grape harvest season in the Douro region, an age-old tradition that once brought together hundreds of people of all ages. Harvest workers would wake before sunrise, carefully picking the grapes, bunch by bunch, with skill and precision, before carrying them to the wine press in traditional wooden tubs. The next step was grape treading, crushing the fruit underfoot. It was a long, exhausting process that demanded considerable physical effort.

Times have changed, bringing with them grape-harvesting machines capable of handling everything from picking the grapes to crushing them. However, in the village of Freixiel, grapes are still harvested just as they were in the past: by hand.

And it is no easy task. It requires endurance, dedication and determination. Eight hours of work, with a one-hour lunch break, walking between vineyard terraces under the blazing sun, constantly bending over to ensure that not a single bunch of grapes is left behind. By the end of the day, your legs feel heavy, but there is a sense of accomplishment.

It was a hot day, and the clock had just struck ten in the morning. Although it was still early, my fellow harvesters had already been working for more than three hours. They were clearly used to it.

Around fifteen people, most of them between forty and sixty years old, with sun-weathered skin and sweat running down their faces, greeted me with cheerful smiles. I decided to approach them and ask whether they would welcome my participation. “Come along, young lady! Join us!” Mrs Lurdes immediately replied. “You should have been here from the beginning! Here, take these pruning shears!”

I picked up the grape-cutting shears. I had never seen anything quite like them before. I must confess that I have always had a rather uneasy relationship with scissors. Nevertheless, I was motivated and ready to take part, especially because I wanted to show off my Trás-os-Montes roots.

How wrong I was! I quickly discovered that I was merely playing at grape harvesting and almost cut my finger with my very first attempt. Mr João noticed, came to my rescue and taught me the proper technique. It is not a task that requires extraordinary skill, but it does demand care. The shears must be positioned above the bunch, while the grapes should be held by the stem to prevent them from falling to the ground. Above all, you need to pay attention when cutting, because losing a finger is certainly not part of the experience!

My fellow harvesters moved through the vineyard terraces at a frantic pace that I struggled to keep up with. Yet they worked with remarkable enthusiasm. Their age did not stop them from laughing, chatting and even dancing to the sound of lively Portuguese pimba music. After this experience, I am certain of one thing: the lightness of spirit that comes with country life is immeasurable and can overcome even the greatest physical discomfort.

The short time I spent with them was not enough for me to experience the full effects of a day’s work in the fields the following morning. But when I think back to the smiles on their tired faces, I realise that what motivated them was not simply the work itself, but the joy of being together. Of keeping a tradition alive.

I saw nostalgia for their childhood years and memories of a past shared by their ancestors. By taking part in the grape harvest, they were honouring their younger days and remembering how hard life had been for their parents, grandparents and great-grandparents, who worked from sunrise to sunset just to put food on the table. Life in the countryside is not easy, but the experiences it offers cannot be found anywhere else.

If you are looking for new and challenging experiences, visit the north-eastern region of Trás-os-Montes. Spend your days discovering the small wonders and hidden charms this beautiful region has to offer, and at the end of the day, unwind at Quinta do Palame, a peaceful and welcoming retreat best enjoyed with a fine glass of Douro wine.

For bookings at Quinta do Palame, please call +351 96 283 99 66.

Filipa Neves